From Austria to Central Saint Martins, René Scheibenbauer projects a journey to the limit of mysticism in the autumn winter 2020 2021 collection, an abstract thought that is inspired by intellectual and artistic sources, including references to sociology and psychoanalysis, experiments and workshops of a purely nature creative. To better understand this young and stimulating designer, it is necessary to translate the hermetic communication that Scheibenbauer hides behind the eccentric minimalism of his garments.
The Austrian designer defines his first approach to fashion as a summary of practices such as meditation or spiritual retreats which, if combined with the creation of fashion, “can only lead to clothes or sketches that remain exclusively in an idealized form”. The first attempt to make their efforts real comes with the realization that this purely impalpable fashion can only be implemented through two fundamental principles: the touch (therefore the fabrics, their weight and their function) and the work in workshops artistic (i.e. the formation of a community that wants to interpret the brand by dressing clothes).
Going even deeper, the designer applies the theory in a laboratory that works as a social experiment, making people and clothes interact: “the goal is to observe how people wear fashion, how they manage to interpret it differently from each other , going to underline one’s identity ”. From the abstract forms present in the first attempts to launch his brand, he manages to build a more e discorso ective speech, mainly linked to the feelings and sensations that clothing o ﬀ re to the body and mind of every fashion user: “the way I have wanted to get closer to fashion translates into a therapeutic attitude thanks to clothing; it is the person at the center of the speech and not the other way around ”. Touch, as mentioned, is the first element from which, according to Scheibenbauer, it is necessary to start. The fabric becomes the protagonist and the stylist must take into account, in addition to the more technical speci ﬁ cities, also the question of environmental responsibility: no fabric of his garments, in herm, originates outside Europe and the criterion for choosing each material is sustainability, whether it’s recycled or zero impact fabrics.
Secondly, therefore, the community that is created: an experimental and aesthetic laboratory that Scheibenbauer wanted to make explicit in the latest look book autumn winter 2020 2021 collection, in which some friends or workshop participants were chosen, photographed in front of their homes, underlining the designer’s intimate and discreet, extremely unique and personal aspect. Scheibenbauer represents a fairly rare vein in fashion design, a hate and love towards an industry that, at the level of responsibility towards nature or towards people, makes water from all sides. “I got to be able to get in touch with very important realities and with each stylistic choice I wondered why the criterion of quality or curiosity was not used. My works are born to try to give an answer to this lack in the fashion industry “and adds:” the moment of total arrest that we are experiencing in these days is giving me the opportunity to observe our sector even more, to be able to understand how to act later, to move from reflection to a real action “.