Sustainable Fashion 2020: the brands that choose green
Their responsibility towards the environment that surrounds us is now an element that new generation designers must take into account for the creation of sustainable fashion. Whether it’s clothing or accessories, the path pioneered by Stella McCartney for almost twenty years now becomes a prerogative that is supported and driven not only by publishing or the fashion system but by the market itself, to which creatives respond from all the world.
This selection focuses on the sustainable fashion in the broadest possible sense, from responsibility towards the communities in difficulty in their own country and the use of organic fabrics by Thebe Magugu and Joao Maraschin, or the upcycling of Young N Sang and Carlotta Boldracchi, and yet the zero waste approach , by Germanier.
Thebe Magugu combines the search for materials by concentrating its sustainable production and keeping it in the areas where it grew, thus favoring the local communities of Doornfontein, Pretoria and Bertrams. Magugu represents one of the African excellences that have distinguished themselves in recent years and that have been able to express their creative and ethical message thanks to the LVMH Prize (which has always wanted to focus on designers with a strong social message), a contest that Thebe Magugu himself won in 2019.
© Kristin-Lee Moolman
Originally from South Korea, the creative duo Young N Sang (abbreviations of Youngshin is Sanglim) appears for the first time in 2018 as an extremely experimental brand that recovers its fabrics from the scraps of local companies or from unused garments, concentrating its research on upcycling and creating a dynamic sportswear that has attracted international attention.
Within a very short time, the brand evolves, gaining considerable awareness. “We have worked a lot on our style” says Youngshin during one of the Portfolio Reviews organized by Fashion Talents “but above all on which materials to use. At the moment each fabric used in the collection comes directly from our country to limit any type of unnecessary transport; we don’t see it as a limit but as a new challenge. ” The result is an eccentric sustainable ‘couture’ where each garment and workmanship are unique, unrepeatable.
Germanier represents the most glamorous side of sustainable fashion. The brand was born thanks to the research that Kevin Germanier For years on a global level, it has been making use of the materials that fashion abandons or no longer uses once the necessary production is finished. The Maison has evolved over time passing from the excesses of costumes often made for stars like Björk to a deep knowledge of its customers, expanding the range of products – going up to the autumn-winter 2020 2021 collection, a structured, fresh collection, which fully expresses the designer’s potential between daywear and eveningwear, without forgetting the more colourful and rich side of excess that characterizes it.
Joao Maraschin, protagonist among the many names in the Portfolio Review of Fashion Talents, tells in its collections a story that moves between Brazil, Italy and the United Kingdom, the three countries that reveal the identity of the young creative. After working in various companies, Maraschin launches the brand that has its roots in the collaboration of Brazilian communities carefully chosen by the designer himself. “The first collection was created with the help of ten local communities, including one that helps people older than age who have lost their jobs.” Also noted by British Fashion Council, Maraschin defines its own fashion human-centered: design is as fundamental as the help that the project itself can give to every single person involved.
Finally, Carlotta Boldracchi deals with the issue of sustainability in a totally personal way, primarily using upcycled materials as a necessity for her visual story, in an entirely artisan perspective. Boldracchi uses fabrics destined to be thrown away, recovering each fabric and transforming it into a totally different creation, underlining its dreamy and abstract vision. The designer works in her atelier, making all the garments on her own, insisting on the value of quality, artistry and environmental impact that the same can have. Among the fans, we also find Levante who wore clothes in the video of his latest single. The designer’s projects are many and all arise from a single concept: stop, start over the creative process of fashion and focus on what Italy has to offer, that is, beautiful and well-made things.