An artistic and unconventional approach characterizes the autumn winter 2020 2021 collection by Edward Cuming, designer who has just launched his namesake brand, after graduating from Central Saint Martins. This new work is a further exploration of the manipulation of tissues – which has distinguished him since his graduate collection – which are recovered and reassembled through upcycling operations and lead to decidedly innovative and refined results. For the next fall season Edward Cuming drew inspiration from the photographer’s work Martin Parr and the director’s cinematography Ulrich Seidl, showing a tendency to mix art with the genesis of his creations. This leads to a well-defined aesthetic, despite the designer’s young age, made of an incompleteness that perfectly incorporates the choice of using remnants and scraps of fabrics.
There autumn winter 2020 2021 collection it therefore plays on the concept of inverted construction: the trousers are in fact made showing all the internal parts, such as the lining of the pockets which become a decorative element, also thanks to the contrasting color with which they were designed. The remnants of different fabrics, recovered from the wedding dress with which Cuming shares the work spaces, were then joined in a patchwork for an overcoat characterized by visible stitching, further emphasized by the appearance not finished. A half-buttoned shirt-seraph presents a layering of fabric both for the neck and for the maxi pocket, continuing to develop the concept of incompleteness that runs throughout the collection; as well as the striped shirt for which layering is used to insert parts of a tropical print. Finally, to complete the outerwear, a short duffle coat for which, again, the lining of the pockets is used as a decorative element through an excess of fabric, together with the frogs that double, mixing functionality and aesthetics.